Don Ho? Dang Ha?

Finally made it out of Hue. I've grown weary of moto and cyclo drivers. I was even relieved to see the gathering hordes of children when I stopped for a drink (right next to a grade school). It's nice and cool up here in central Nam - about 70F out right now. Of course the locals have on their winter coats, scarves, and stocking caps. There were a few sprinkles along the way, but nothing too bad. One more day in Nam and then into Laos - which is suppose to be much more laid back, Cambodia like. Apparently they don't get too many visitors here in Dong Ha - my room was listed for $19 and I said it was too much. The receptionist asked how much I could pay, so I said $10. She said, "$10, ok." I didn't even bother to look at the room. Not a bad place either - looks like hot water, satellite tv, and even a balcony and mini-bar. I probably didn't look like I could pay more then $10 anyways - my shirt was sprayed with flecks of reddish mud, making it look like I had been standing behind someone who got blasted with a shotgun.

BTW, sending email out of this place seems to be an impossibility. Which is annoying, as I am trying to schedule my limited time in the US. Anyways, for those expecting email from me (and those who I've been pestering with email and don't want anymore), I will try to get emails sent ASAP. I'm not sure when, especially since Laos will probably be pretty spartan. I believe Savan should have internet, which is where I'll be in 4 days. I can sometimes read emails, so don't be afraid to send them to me. Especially if I'm expecting to hear from you.

Hue

I've finally managed to escape Saigon and have made it to Hue (just south of the DMZ). I don't want to say I hated Saigon, but I wouldn't recommend it for anything more then a quick stop over. You definitely have to stay on your toes there. Walking is a constant headache as there are very few sidewalks, or where sidewalks exist you have to constantly weave around food stands and motos. And the motos are more dangerous then on the street, since they pretty much have free reign on the sidewalks. Basically, nobody looks to see where they are going. On the streets, at least the motos will weave around you as long as you keep a nice steady pace. Bargaining is expected for almost everything, and there are enough people who want to scam the "rich foreigners," you have to be pretty good with your quick calculations. And after all this travelling, I sometimes get confused. It's roughly 15,000 dong/$ and a couple times I almost got upset when I felt the internet place was overcharging me by 500 dong. Of course, that works out to about 3 cents. At the market, I almost ended up paying 650,000 dong for a shirt, when the price should have been closer to 65,000. That woman wasn't too happy to see me run off once I figured it out. Motos drivers will try to charge 100,000 dong for 10,000 dong rides. Like they say, the Vietnamese are much more tourist savvey then the other Southeast Asians.

Here in Hue, I have reached the climatic north. It's about 70F and quite gray out. I have a few days of sight seeing here before heading east. Hue was the capital of Vietnam and has the Purple Forbidden City, plus lots of tombs around the city. I'll bike about 5 or 6 days east before heading up to Vientenne via bus and then taking the train down to Bangkok. Just over two weeks left.

HCMC (the pictures)

No, this is not Sturgis.



The Cau Dai Temple - Buddhism+Catholicism+Confuscism+Something else



Cau Dai worshippers



Hidden Cu Chi Tunnel Entrance

Stuck

- Currently stuck in Ho Chi Minh, as I need to apply for a new (Peace Corps) passport at the consulate office. Unfortunately, their hours are 8:30-11:30, Mon-Thur. On the plus side, I know now what job I want after the Peace Corps.

- Went out to Cu Chi to see the tunnels. Or at least the reconstructed tunnels. They were still quite small. Interesting little propaganda film from the late 60's showing VC's laying mines. They also had various bamboo traps and of course kitschy souveniers (bottled cobra anyone?).

- The Christmas trees and santas look out of place.

- Not much to do here but wait for Monday. I guess it's better then being stuck on the train for three days (for a 20 hour trip) due to the flooding. As someone I was talking to had been.

Major Announcement

Soooo, I now have my plan. At least for 27 months in the forthcoming dark age. I have been offered, and accepted, a position with the Peace Corps. I will be going to Sunni Uzbekistan. Which means I will be heading back early (returning Dec 24 - that and Dec 25 were the only flights with room between now and February), making the rounds (early January), and leaving January 15.

In the meantimes, I'm training it up to Hue, biking across the DMZ, into Laos. Taking a bus to Vientienne, and then train back down to Bangkok. So only one mountain to cross (about 400m on the Vietnam / Laos border) and 6 days of biking.